Text Amy Ma

This year, the future inevitably changed for some 298 restaurants and hotels in Hong Kong and Macau that made it onto the pages of the 2010 Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau. For 86 restaurants and eight hotels, this is the first time they are joining the ranks among their celebrated brethren in what is probably the world’s most influential international restaurant and hotel guide.

Not every one of the restaurants within the book received an actual Michelin star, the iconic symbol shaped like a flower comprised of six petals. The receipt of even one star has often been compared to winning the ‘culinary Oscars’ or ‘cooking Olympics’. To be awarded the coveted top score of three stars, defined as “exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey”, is a feat achieved by very few.

Hong Kong’s top French restaurant Caprice made headline news this year, becoming the newest and third three-star winner. Last year, only two restaurants – Macau’s Robuchon a Galera and Hong Kong’s Lung King Heen – received three stars in Michelin’s inaugural Hong Kong Macau issue. They once again held on to their titles this year.

Hong Kong’s restaurant Petrus upgraded to two stars from its single star last year, joining eight other two-star restaurants (seven in Hong Kong, one in Macau). And last year’s darling of the Michelin Guide, Bo Innovation, a restaurant known for the chef’s innovative takes using traditional Chinese flavours, lost one of its two stars this year and joined the 38 other restaurants (31 in Hong Kong, seven in Macau) to hold one star. All-time favourite Hong Kong French restaurant Gaddi’s remains star-less, seen by many Hong Kongers as an oversight.

Originally created as a means to sell more tyres, the Michelin brothers gave out the then free guides in an effort to inspire motorists on new adventures and travel. Fast forward from 1900 to today, and the guide sold more than 1.2 million copies last year alone. With a Michelin Guide in hand, travellers cross countries to experience a first-person taste of what was recommended.

This year, the Michelin team members have themselves travelled further, branching out from the central Hong Kong districts to areas in Kowloon and the New Territories such as Sham Shui Po, San Po Kong, Yuen Long and Sha Tin.

Often accused, because of its French origin, of not being an authentic authority on Asian food, the guide has taken new steps to demonstrate its dedication to local tastes, including more than 60 different types of Asian regional cuisines, such as Sichuanese, Hakkanese and Shanghainese.

To further shake off objections from those who raise an eyebrow at Michelin’s alleged snootiness and preference for grandiose establishments, the Hong Kong Macau guide has included a large section of Bib Gourmand eateries, chosen for their good value. Compared to last year’s 26 restaurants, this section has almost doubled to include 50 eateries (45 in Hong Kong and five in Macau), all of which offer three-course meals for HK$300 or less. Additionally, a new icon for ‘simple shop’ highlights those of the Bib Gourmand selections that offer local fare for HK$50 or less, including favourites such as Man An Kee and Olala noodle shops.

Michelin’s thicker and more ambitious second edition may have yet to hit the bull’s eye in appeasing all local Hong Kong and Macau sentiments. But it has undoubtedly come closer, leading to a positive outlook for the guide’s future in Asia. The third time could possibly hit the mark perfectly.

Who are the inspectors?

Notorious for keeping their anonymity, sometimes even parents are unaware their children are Michelin inspectors. Recruited from hotel-school graduates with five to 10 years of restaurant or hospitality industry experience, inspectors are carefully screened and selected. The first interview for a new recruit takes place at a restaurant table. The applicant is fed a meal and then tested to see if they have an eye for detail. Those that pass to the second round follow a senior inspector for three to six months on the road, until they are familiar with Michelin standards and guidelines. Travelling over 30,000km a year, staying in 160 hotels and eating 250 meals, it is not a job to be held by the weak of heart… or of stomach.

Hidden Stars

Dining in Michelin-starred restaurants may not be an everyday affair, but various restaurants have cafés and offshoots offering up the same quality fare for less.

le Salon de The de Joel Robuchon
The same chefs that prepare the two-star Michelin meals at Hong Kong’s L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon also make the light lunch and afternoon fare in the café downstairs, including freshly baked breads, Viennoiseries, desserts and selected savoury sandwiches and light meals.
Shop 315, The Landmark, Central, Hong Kong +852 2166 9000

Island Gourmet
In the small cake shop across from one-star Michelin Cantonese restaurant Summer Palace, guests can sit back and relax on plush couches in a simple café setting while ordering a selection of Chinese dim sum from the restaurant’s kitchen.
Island Shangri-La Hotel, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2820 8550

caprice lounge
A short detour from the three-star Caprice restaurant’s entrance leads customers to a cosy lounge on the right. Here, you can order drinks and a tasting of fine aged cheeses from the restaurant’s own private cheese cellar.
6/F Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 3196 8888