Catharine Nichol finds the Philippine capital is no longer Asia’s ugly secret

The music’s blasting, the heat is rising and the lights are sweeping over the beautiful crowd, who are going off like they’ve been stuck in traffic jams all day. I’m looking down at the packed floor while rubbing shoulders with a seriously cute DJ, an irrepressible yogini, and the door bitch of them all, at Encore, Manila’s hippest club. When “I’ve Got a Feeling” comes on the atmosphere electrifies as hundreds of voices sing along. And suddenly it’s not just a good night; it throws up one of the most insightful comments I’ve had all week, from a friend who lives out here. “Manila isn’t a beautiful city on the outside, but on the inside. It is all about the people. They have more warmth and compassion than in any other Asian city.”

Manila has long been the city that travellers have loved to hate. It’s not pretty, the traffic sucks, and there are some seriously sleazy neighbourhoods. But my friend was right. Take the time to really interact with the city’s lifeblood – the genuinely warm people – and you’ll discover the source of Manila’s beauty. That in addition to a culture full of fascinating traditions and bizarre beliefs, a city crammed with outstanding restaurants, bars and malls, and naturally great service. Manila really has reinvented itself over the years – from the huge properties in Greenhills and suburban Alabang, to village-like Malate and des-res Makati – and if you can take the time to explore rather than immediately jet out to one of the country’s stunning beach resorts, you could be in for one of your best city excursions ever.

Start off by delving back in time in the oldest part of Manila – Intramuros (meaning within the walls). When the Spanish landed they decided to make Manila, originally rich in resources, the capital of the country in 1571 and by 1606 Intramuros was, literally, Manila. These old city walls still cocoon some spectacular churches like San Agustin, and squares like the Plaza San Luis. But don’t take my word for it; go on a walking tour with Carlos Celdran (www.carlosceldran.com) for a morning or afternoon that combines historic interest with laugh-out-loud irreverencies and lots of local colour. And for a taste of heritage Filipino-Spanish cuisine Ilustrado Restaurant is the place to try paellas, roast duck and pork in a beautifully restored building.

Admittedly, the Philippines is not renowned for its cuisine. There’s something about pork done five ways with vinegar that doesn’t translate easily to foreign palates. But it’s worth persisting – and getting out of the five-star hotels. Try Abe for easy Filipino food, Fireplace for the best steak in town, French at Lolo Dad’s and Persian food at Hussein’s Persian Kebab. For the perfect brunch it’s got to be Apartment 1B – tuck into great eggs Benedict, but only after you’ve strolled around the Saturday Salcedo Market, where everything fresh, organic and natural takes over the leafy park. Over 100 stalls of produce, homemade breads, cookies and jams, great wooden and natural housewares and Filipino snacks make for a fun morning. Just don’t eat too much cheese flavoured ice cream, lechon (pig on a spit) and ensaymadas (sweet buns) to spoil your appetite.

After food, it’s shopping. Manilenos love, love, love to shop and numerous malls pay testament to what is a national sport here. Greenbelt (try Greenbelt 5 for local designers) and Mall of Asia are humongous shop cities, while Rockwell’s Power Plant packs a punch too. But for a serene community feel, The Fort’s green strip, neighbouring Bonifacio High Street and Serendra are mid-range and boutiquey, taking shopping back to when it was a deliciously old-fashioned, out-of-mall experience. Stroll outside under the trees, snack in cafés and then pop into Fully Booked to pick up some Filipino novels for an inside glimpse into life in the Philippines.

And when the city gets to you there are always the spas. The Philippines is justly renowned for its phenomenal spa treatments, and right here at The Fort, Neo Spa is a beautiful day spa of villa-like rooms, sleek interiors and a tempting menu. Or go to the queen of them all, the Edsa ShangriLa – opened by President Gloria Arroyo no less. The cosy, low-lit spa’s most interesting treatment is the Himalayan Tsangpo Ritual which includes a massage on a heated slab with an ice wall standing by to cool you off and a red mountain mud application. The new kid on the block is the Marriott’s Quan Spa, combining delightful design with water treatments guaranteed to wash that city dust off your feet. At the newest hotel in town, close to the airport, you’ll also get the prettiest skyline view of Manila above an emerald green golf course. It’s the new Manila – and it’s so worth getting to know better.

Details

Encore
The Fort Strip, Global City, Fort Bonifacio Taguig Carlos Celdran www.carlosceldran.com +63 24 84 49 45

Cafe Ilustrado
744 Gen. Luna St., Calle Real Del Palacio, Intramuros +63 25 27 23 45

Fireplace
5th Level, Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila, 1588 Pedro Gil cor. M.H. Del Pilar, Malate +63 22 45 12 34

Hussein’s Persian Kebab
Makati Avenue, Makati City, +63 28 90 59 28

Lolo Dad’s
99 President Quirino Ave., Malate +63 25 26 71 51

Abe
Serendra, Bonifacio Global City, +63 28 56 05 26

Apartment 1B
Sedeno, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City, Metro Manila +63 28 43 40 75

Saturday Salcedo Market
LP Leviste Street, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City,

Greenbelt 5
Legaspi Street, Makati City, +63 27 57 41 70

Mall of Asia
Sunset Avenue, Pasay, +63 28 31 70 00

Power Plant Mall
Amorsolo Drive, Makati City, +63 28 98 17 02

Neo Spa
The Fort, 35 Wilson Street, Greenhills West +63 27 25 67 89

CHI, The Spa at Edsa Shangri-La
1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, +63 26 33 88 88

Quan Spa
Marriot hotel, No 10 Newport Boulevard +63 29 88 99 99