The music’s blasting, the heat is rising and the lights are sweeping over the beautiful crowd, who are going off like they’ve been stuck in traffic jams all day. I’m looking down at the packed floor while rubbing shoulders with a seriously cute DJ, an irrepressible yogini, and the door bitch of them all, at Encore, Manila’s hippest club. When “I’ve Got a Feeling” comes on the atmosphere electrifies as hundreds of voices sing along. And suddenly it’s not just a good night; it throws up one of the most insightful comments I’ve had all week, from a friend who lives out here. “Manila isn’t a beautiful city on the outside, but on the inside. It is all about the people. They have more warmth and compassion than in any other Asian city.”

Manila has long been the city that travellers have loved to hate. It’s not pretty, the traffic sucks, and there are some seriously sleazy neighbourhoods. But my friend was right. Take the time to really interact with the city’s lifeblood – the genuinely warm people – and you’ll discover the source of Manila’s beauty. That in addition to a culture full of fascinating traditions and bizarre beliefs, a city crammed with outstanding restaurants, bars and malls, and naturally great service. Manila really has reinvented itself over the years – from the huge properties in Greenhills and suburban Alabang, to village-like Malate and des-res Makati – and if you can take the time to explore rather than immediately jet out to one of the country’s stunning beach resorts, you could be in for one of your best city excursions ever.

Start off by delving back in time in the oldest part of Manila – Intramuros (meaning within the walls). When the Spanish landed they decided to make Manila, originally rich in resources, the capital of the country in 1571 and by 1606 Intramuros was, literally, Manila. These old city walls still cocoon some spectacular churches like San Agustin, and squares like the Plaza San Luis. But don’t take my word for it; go on a walking tour with Carlos Celdran (www.carlosceldran.com) for a morning or afternoon that combines historic interest with laugh-out-loud irreverencies and lots of local colour. And for a taste of heritage Filipino-Spanish cuisine Ilustrado Restaurant is the place to try paellas, roast duck and pork in a beautifully restored building.

Admittedly, the Philippines is not renowned for its cuisine. There’s something about pork done five ways with vinegar that doesn’t translate easily to foreign palates. But it’s worth persisting – and getting out of the five-star hotels. Try Abe for easy Filipino food, Fireplace for the best steak in town, French at Lolo Dad’s and Persian food at Hussein’s Persian Kebab. For the perfect brunch it’s got to be Apartment 1B – tuck into great eggs Benedict, but only after you’ve strolled around the Saturday Salcedo Market, where everything fresh, organic and natural takes over the leafy park. Over 100 stalls of produce, homemade breads, cookies and jams, great wooden and natural housewares and Filipino snacks make for a fun morning. Just don’t eat too much cheese flavoured ice cream, lechon (pig on a spit) and ensaymadas (sweet buns) to spoil your appetite.

After food, it’s shopping. Manilenos love, love, love to shop and numerous malls pay testament to what is a national sport here. Greenbelt (try Greenbelt 5 for local designers) and Mall of Asia are humongous shop cities, while Rockwell’s Power Plant packs a punch too. But for a serene community feel, The Fort’s green strip, neighbouring Bonifacio High Street and Serendra are mid-range and boutiquey, taking shopping back to when it was a deliciously old-fashioned, out-of-mall experience. Stroll outside under the trees, snack in cafés and then pop into Fully Booked to pick up some Filipino novels for an inside glimpse into life in the Philippines.

And when the city gets to you there are always the spas. The Philippines is justly renowned for its phenomenal spa treatments, and right here at The Fort, Neo Spa is a beautiful day spa of villa-like rooms, sleek interiors and a tempting menu. Or go to the queen of them all, the Edsa ShangriLa – opened by President Gloria Arroyo no less. The cosy, low-lit spa’s most interesting treatment is the Himalayan Tsangpo Ritual which includes a massage on a heated slab with an ice wall standing by to cool you off and a red mountain mud application. The new kid on the block is the Marriott’s Quan Spa, combining delightful design with water treatments guaranteed to wash that city dust off your feet. At the newest hotel in town, close to the airport, you’ll also get the prettiest skyline view of Manila above an emerald green golf course. It’s the new Manila – and it’s so worth getting to know better.

Details

Encore
The Fort Strip, Global City, Fort Bonifacio Taguig Carlos Celdran www.carlosceldran.com +63 24 84 49 45

Cafe Ilustrado
744 Gen. Luna St., Calle Real Del Palacio, Intramuros +63 25 27 23 45

Fireplace
5th Level, Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila, 1588 Pedro Gil cor. M.H. Del Pilar, Malate +63 22 45 12 34

Hussein’s Persian Kebab
Makati Avenue, Makati City, +63 28 90 59 28

Lolo Dad’s
99 President Quirino Ave., Malate +63 25 26 71 51

Abe
Serendra, Bonifacio Global City, +63 28 56 05 26

Apartment 1B
Sedeno, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City, Metro Manila +63 28 43 40 75

Saturday Salcedo Market
LP Leviste Street, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City,

Greenbelt 5
Legaspi Street, Makati City, +63 27 57 41 70

Mall of Asia
Sunset Avenue, Pasay, +63 28 31 70 00

Power Plant Mall
Amorsolo Drive, Makati City, +63 28 98 17 02

Neo Spa
The Fort, 35 Wilson Street, Greenhills West +63 27 25 67 89

CHI, The Spa at Edsa Shangri-La
1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, +63 26 33 88 88

Quan Spa
Marriot hotel, No 10 Newport Boulevard +63 29 88 99 99

在震耳欲聾的音樂中，五光十色的燈光灑落在 打扮時髦的人群上，他們彷彿被交通堵塞折磨 了一整天，即使在高溫中，也迫不及待地釋放 體內的能量。我在馬尼拉最酷的夜店 Encore， 穿梭於人群之中，與外型俊俏的DJ、美豔的 瑜伽女孩擦身而過。就在全場合唱「I’ve Got a Feeling」的那一刻，我的心情也隨著氣氛變

得白熱化。同行的友人A說了一句話，頗能貼 切形容我在馬尼拉一個星期的感受：「馬尼拉 的人，比任何一個亞洲城市的人更親切熱情而 富同情心，因此即使馬尼拉的外表並不漂亮， 她卻有豐富的內在美。」

很多到過馬尼拉的人，對這城市的印象 都不佳。她的市容不討好，有不少被認為低 俗的地區，惡劣的交通情況更令人怨聲載道。 但A說得對，假如你能花點時間，認識當地的 人情，聽他們娓娓道來菲律賓的傳統和風俗， 你便會在滿城的餐廳、酒吧與購物商場及體貼 的服務中，發現馬尼拉吸引人之處。

這些年來，馬尼拉 一 直 努 力 轉 型 ， 發 展 大 型 項 目 ， 如 郊 區  
Alabang 和Greenhills的 大 型 房 地 產 項 目 、 村 莊式的Malate 酒店及豪 華的 Makati 酒店等。 今天的馬尼拉，不再只 是通往誘人的菲律賓海 濱地區的轉駁點，而是 一座充滿驚喜的城市。

遊 馬 尼 拉 ， 應 該 以 最 古 老 的 城 區 為 起 點。這是1571年西班牙 人佔領時，將首都設在 馬尼拉時興建的皇城， 到了1606年，正式成為 馬尼拉。時至今日，古 城區內仍保存著許多偉 大 的 歷 史 建 築 ， 如 聖 奧 古 斯 丁 教 堂 和 聖 路 易斯廣場。不過，要體 驗真正的馬尼拉，最好 還是跟著當地嚮導 Carlos Celdran（www.carlosceldran.com ）在 早 上 或 下 午 走 一 趟 ， 聽他以幽默風趣的方式，向你介紹當地的歷史 古蹟。走得餓了，不妨到以古建築修建而成 的 Ilustrado 餐廳，品嚐西班牙海鮮飯、烤鴨、 烤豬等西班牙式菲律賓料理。

坦白說，菲律賓料理就如馬尼拉的市容 一樣，並未令人留下深刻印象。原因很簡單， 對外國人來說，用豬肉和醋弄出來的多種菜 式，根本稱不上是美食。但馬尼拉的五星級 酒店還是有不錯的食肆，值得放膽一試這裡的 地道食物。你可以在 Abe 嚐到簡單的菲律賓 菜，在Fireplace享用全城最上等的牛扒，或者 到Lolo Dad’s 體驗正統的法國餐，而 Hussein’s Persian Kebab則是一試波斯料理的好選擇。 要飽嚐完美的早午餐可以到 Apartment 1B， 點一客豐盛的 Eggs Benedict。不過，在那之 前，記得到 Saturday Salcedo Market 逛逛。

座落在綠油油的公園裡的週六市場，有超過 100個攤檔擺賣自製麵包、餅乾、果醬、蔬 菜、肉類、木製家具及菲律賓小吃等商品。但 對著滋味小吃如乳酪味雪糕、燒豬和甜牛油麵 包時，記得要節制，免得破壞接下來的胃口。

吃飽後，當然要去購物一番。單看城中 林立的購物商場，便不難猜到菲律賓人對購 物的狂熱。Greenbelt（其中的 Greenbelt 5 以本 地設計為主）、Mall of Asia，還有 Rockwell 的 Power Plant 都是極受歡迎的大型購物中心。

The Fort 的綠草地和鄰近的 Bonifacio High Street 及 Serendra 等較幽靜的時尚區域，帶你 重回購物商場出現之前的年代，讓你細味每一 間小店的特色。逛完後，你可以在樹下漫步， 到咖啡店吃些點心，然後到 Fully Booked 書 店，找幾本書，了解當地的風土人情。

有 時 候 ， 熱 鬧 的 城 市 令 人 感 到 侷 促 ， 幸好馬尼拉開設了不少水療設施，讓你隨時 進去輕鬆一下。位於 The Fort 的 Neo Spa 有 別墅式的水療房、華麗的裝潢和一流的水療 服務。由總統阿羅約夫人開幕剪綵的 Edsa Shangri-La，提供舒適燈光下的喜馬拉雅山 藏布式按摩療程，是人生一大享受；另外， 躺在熱板上由專人按摩，旁邊一道冰牆帶給你 一絲涼意，更是有趣的經驗。至於離機場不 遠的 Marriott 酒店除了翠綠的高爾夫球場和馬 尼拉醉人的海岸美景外，新開張的水療中心 Quan Spa 也提供讓人恢復精力的水療服務。

假如你對馬尼拉的印象，還停留在烏煙瘴 氣的城市的話，你應該重新認識她了。

聯絡詳情

Encore
The Fort Strip, Global City, Fort Bonifacio Taguig Carlos Celdran www.carlosceldran.com +63 24 84 49 45

Cafe Ilustrado
744 Gen. Luna St., Calle Real Del Palacio, Intramuros +63 25 27 23 45

Fireplace
5th Level, Hyatt Hotel and Casino Manila, 1588 Pedro Gil cor. M.H. Del Pilar, Malate +63 22 45 12 34

Hussein’s Persian Kebab
Makati Avenue, Makati City, +63 28 90 59 28

Lolo Dad’s
99 President Quirino Ave., Malate +63 25 26 71 51

Abe
Serendra, Bonifacio Global City, +63 28 56 05 26

Apartment 1B
Sedeno, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City, Metro Manila +63 28 43 40 75

Saturday Salcedo Market
LP Leviste Street, Barangay Bel-Air, Makati City,

Greenbelt 5
Legaspi Street, Makati City, +63 27 57 41 70

Mall of Asia
Sunset Avenue, Pasay, +63 28 31 70 00

Power Plant Mall
Amorsolo Drive, Makati City, +63 28 98 17 02

Neo Spa
The Fort, 35 Wilson Street, Greenhills West +63 27 25 67 89

CHI, The Spa at Edsa Shangri-La
1 Garden Way, Ortigas Centre, +63 26 33 88 88

Quan Spa
Marriot hotel, No 10 Newport Boulevard +63 29 88 99 99

Text Andrew Stone
Photography Gary Mak

Head to lan Kwai Fong or Wan Chai, Hong Kong’s best know nightlife neighbourhoods, on almost any night and you’ll find yourself josting for space amongst throngs of fellow partygoers.

It can all be great fun if you’re in the mood but what to do if you want a cooler, more exclusive experience, away from the pie-eyed, happy-hour drunks? Know where to look or who to ask and you’ll discover a parallel city partying into the wee small hours.

‘Look up’, should be the watchword when seeking out the city’s classier speakeasies. In the old tenement blocks and high rises of Central, Wan Chai, Causeway Bay and Tsim Sha Tsui discreet lounges with terrace views, swank whisky bars and exclusive members only drinking dens beckon.

Known best for its densely packed shopping mall, on street level Causeway Bay (just east of Wan Chai) appears to be a nighlife desert, Twenty or thirty floors up though you’ll find chic, buzzing oases offering karaoke, smart business bars and tiny Japanese snack joints.

Step into the lobbies of the Bartlock Centre on Yiu Wa Street, or Bloom House on Tung Lung Street and you’ll find dozens of little bars and karaoke joints belting out Cantopop classics, frequented by a mainly Cantonese crowd of locals.

The high-rise hotspot of the moment is Continental Diamond Plaza. Explore the options b elevator or simply punch the button for floor 27 for entry to Banker, a chandelier and marble-festooned lounge bar overlooking the Happy Valley district and attracting a cool, affluent crowd. Four floors down you’ll find Home, a chic champagne bar plastered with memorabilia to the famous French fizz.

Want to be sure you’re drinking incognito? Then head to the Executive Bar inside the Bartlock Centre. An exclusive Japanese-run drinking den, it serves an unrivalled selection of whiskies (and bourbons) from around the world served with its trademark ice spheres in huge brandy style ballons.

You must book ahead, which makes it ideal for discrete tête-à-têtes. But be warned; It’s all rather dark, masculine and serious and if you turn up without a reservation you will not be served.

Across the harbour in Kowloon is Where, several floors above hanoi Road, offering some chilled out perspectives from its breezy, bamboo bedecked terrace. White couches, shisha pipes and DJ decks inside complete the pleasingly louche picture.

If you find yourself wanting to escape the heat and hustle of nearby Knutsford Terrace (Kowloon’s mini Lan Kwai Fong) head for Dada Bar + Lounge, THe Dali-inspired bar of the opulently odd Luxe Manor hotel. Not exactly a secret, it is nonetheless a favourite entry in the little black books of a professional crowd of jetsetters and cultured thirtysomething locals who come for its lounge sounds, live jazz and fruity cocktails.

Back across the water in the buzzing streets of Central and Soho, hidden watering holes tend to be few and far between. If you find yourself Soho way, try the stalwart Club 71, a pretension-free zone down a dark alley off Hollywood Road. It’s hard to find and so ideal for those wanting a quiet drink or a bit of friendly banter with its small arty, crowd and laid-back bar staff.

If you fin yourself in the thick of the action in the Fong and need to escape the madness, take a short stroll uphill to Half Past Ten and reward yourself with cocktails on comfy sofas in a classy tucked away spot near the tangle of overpasses and walkways of nearby Caine Road.

If the walk uphill is all a bit too much or seeking out the hidden night spots in Central seems unnecessarily cloak and dagger, you could do worse than head to the Mandarin Oriental’s classic 25th-floor M Bar.

Like Dada, secret it most certainly is not, but while the ground floor Captain’s Bar is almost always packed with cigar chomping grandees, for some reason M has always had a table free when we’ve visited. It goes without saying that the service is exemplary and the cocktails magnificent. Order a cherry Negroni, revel in the elbow room and take in those amazing harbour views. Cheers!

Details

Banker
27/F Continental DIamond Plaza. 523-527 Hennessy Road

Club 71
B/F, 67 Hollywood Rd, Soho +852 2858 7071

Dada
39 Kimberley Rd Kowloon, Hong Kong +852 3763 8778 www.dadaloung.com.hk

Executive Bar
27/F, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa St +852 2893 2080

Half Past Ten
Lower Basement 10 Glenealy, Central +852 2869 9089

Home
23/F Continental Diamond Plaza, 523-527 Hennessy Rd +852 2836 6434

M Bar
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road Central +852 2825 4002

Where
4/F Century House, 3-4 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui +852 2135 9999

Text Gary Jones

從浦東黃浦江的外灘望向對岸，瞬即映入眼簾的，當然是全世界最高大廈之一、樓高492米的上海環球金融中心。它連同外型如火箭的東方明珠廣播電視塔、仿如超時空建築的上海證券大廈， 象徵著上海已重拾往日商業金融中心的地位。上海在30年代被聯軍 管治時期，聚集了來自世界不同角落的人和他們獨有的文化。當時的社 會流行喝雞尾酒、聽爵士樂等高級的西方享受，而本地建築師亦推崇 前衛的設計理念，反映時代精神的建築如雨後春筍般冒起。上海也在 這段期間化身為裝飾藝術城市。

裝飾藝術啟蒙自意大利的未來主義，以及德國的包豪斯主義， 著重以整齊排列的幾何圖案和簡單的線條，來反映時代的變遷。而上 海就把這種藝術方式完全吸收，套用在酒店、消防栓、戲院、鹽瓶等 大小事物上面。時至今日，上海裝飾藝術建築的數目，仍遠超過被譽 為裝飾藝術城市的邁阿密。

想一覽上海的裝飾藝術建築，最好由百老匯大廈開始。這座如 葛咸城的大廈，守衛著外灘的北面，是讓人嘆為觀止的上海建築之 一。百老匯大廈建於1934年，原為一座22層的赭磚住宅大廈，如今它 雖然被周圍的摩天大樓比下去，卻仍然散發著一股誓不向現實屈服的 霸氣。諷刺的是，在百老匯大廈建成三年後，住民因日軍入侵而被逼 遷，而大廈那充滿紐約色彩的名字亦在1949年共產黨獲勝後，被改成 上海大廈。但不久後，大廈轉型為一家四星級酒店，並恢復舊名。

然而要數上海最為人知的裝飾藝術建築，非和平飯店莫屬。和平 飯店建於1929年，原名華懋飯店，是家族靠鴉片發跡的舊上海名流、 英籍伊拉克商人維克多沙遜的傑作。華懋飯店在高峰時期，是差利卓 別靈及劇作家 Noel Coward 等名人的住宿之選，而後者更是在下榻華 懋飯店時，完成其個人名著《私人生活》。

以黃色花崗石外牆和綠色尖頂為特徵，樓高77米的和平飯店反 映了上世紀初的輝煌。位於飯店旁的中國銀行若按照原定設計興建， 完成後本應是外灘最高的大廈，但由於上海當時由英國管治，在沙遜 反對下，建築藍圖被修改，令中國銀行大廈比和平飯店矮了30厘米。

離開黃浦江往西走，就來到上海市最熱鬧的購物區──南京路。 一棟矗立在人民廣場上，與其他建築截然不同的，是1934年以深褐色 磚建成的上海國際飯店。舞池位於層層向內收窄的大樓頂部，是昔日 上海名流聚集的地方。樓高22層的上海國際飯店不但可遠眺上海跑馬 廳全景，而且在第二次世界大戰後，仍保持遠東第一高樓的位置。

繼續往西走，你會看到更多裝飾藝術建築。石門路角的麥特赫 斯脫大樓，在當時是時尚生活的典範。而在南京路旁的橫街，靠近銅 仁路就有一棟由匈牙利建築師鄔達克於1938年設計的吳同文住宅。 這棟四層高建築，當年是超級現代化的住宅，有齊各種先進設備， 如升降機、空調，後花園還有一間酒吧。

離吳同文住宅不遠的常德路上，建於1936年的常德公寓曾是名 作家張愛玲的住處，斑駁破落的外表幾十年來不曾引起注意。位於 萬航渡路的百樂門大舞廳，建於1933年，是張愛玲與友人前往玩樂 的地方。上海人向來不愁夜生活，裝飾藝術戲院裡經常放映荷里活 的大製作。1939年，哥倫比亞、米高梅、派拉蒙、二十世紀福斯等 均進駐上海，在此設立分公司。

建於1931年的國泰電影院，座落在南京路 南面，舊法租界的淮海路與茂名路的交匯處。

這一帶滲透著濃厚的裝飾藝術色彩，充斥著彩 繪玻璃、圓形舷窗、箭型圖案。位於茂名路 南面，建於1928年的華懋公寓，就是第一批 在上海建成的裝飾藝術建築。由於華懋公寓 廣受讚賞，建築公司於是興建了規模更大的貴 賓樓。如今，這兩家酒店已經合併成為錦江飯 店，而有72間客房的貴賓樓就吸引了名流新貴入 住，前美國總統列根，就曾於1985年下榻有雲石樓 梯的豪華複式套房。

在法國租界地區找裝飾藝術建築一點也不難。那些種 滿綠樹的迂迴小巷背後，仍佇立著方西馬大樓等許多公寓建築。當上 海不斷興起現代化的摩天大廈，向繁華的一級城市進發時，那些見證上 海30年代繁華盛景的裝飾藝術建築，對於這個城市的歷史及未來發展， 也應佔有同樣重要的地位。

入住裝飾藝術酒店

裝飾藝術酒店多數位於上海以文化遺產著稱的地區，因此房租通常價格不菲，必須有心理準備。而且，即將於 5月1日至10月31日舉行的上海世博，預計吸引7千萬人， 將進一步推高房價。若想省點錢的話，可以預先上網訂房。

經過一年翻新工程後，和平酒店將以上海費爾蒙和平飯 店之名，於2010年中重新開業，詳情請瀏覽www.fairmont.com/promo/peacehotel。五星級的上海朗廷揚子精品酒店 (yangtzeboutique.langhamhotels.com，+8621 6080 0800)， 有多個連陽台的客房，而且酒店鄰近人民廣場，可步行到外 灘。位於舊法租界，同樣是五星級的錦江飯店(jinjianghotels.com，+8621 3218 9888)，是比較便宜的選擇，酒店座落在 上海最熱鬧的購物區，鄰近多采多姿的夜生活。

Text Catharine Nicol

深圳是許多中國年輕人居住、工作、玩樂的城市。這班新生代在擁抱東方傳統、享受西方科技，並寄望未來征服世界之餘，同時也在不知不覺間，把深圳變成一個物質享受及娛樂皆豐富的熱點。難怪對很多人來說，深圳就如中國的大型迪士尼樂園，集無限購物、飲食、娛樂於一身。

1 主題公園

深圳可說是國內主題公園的集中地。除了讓你一次看盡艾菲爾鐵塔、泰姬陵、比薩斜塔等縮小版世界名勝的世界之窗（www.szwwco.com）之外，還有錦繡中華中國民俗文化村（www.cn5000.com.cn）。中信明思克航母世界（www.szminsk.com）是較為另類的主題公園，裡面展示了一艘俄羅斯軍艦、明思克文化，以及滑稽的歌舞表演。但最為人津津樂道的，非東部華僑城（tw.octeast.com/about/）莫屬，你可坐上蒸汽火車，鳥瞰仿瑞士村莊而建的茵特拉根酒店，或到區內的三大主題公園：大俠谷生態公園、茶溪谷休閒公園、雲海谷體育公園體驗不同樂趣。

2 住宿

隨 著 深 圳 的 消 費 力 日 益 增 長 ， 國 際 連 鎖酒店品牌紛紛進駐投資。城中新貴包括深 圳金茂 JW 萬豪酒店（www.jwmarriottshenzhen.com ）、深 圳 褔 田 香 格 里 拉 大 酒 店（ www.shangrila.com/cn）及深圳君悅酒店（shenzhen.grand.hyatt.cn）。踏進洋溢西班牙風情的華僑城洲際大酒店（www.ichotelsgroup.com），看到穿粉紅色緊身褲的員工時，可別驚訝，因為這裡有沙灘及酒吧等設施。想體驗尊貴級的享受就要下榻深圳星河麗思卡爾頓酒店（www.ritzcarlton.com/shenzhen）的豪華套房，別錯過酒店的意式餐廳Paletto。擁有100 間客房裝潢各異的深圳視界風尚酒店（www.visionfashionhotel.com）則是為嚮往時尚設計， 又不想花費太多的人而設

3 購物

深圳的購物熱點，早已不限於羅湖商業城一處。以東門步行街（www.expatsz.com）為例，這個售賣價廉物美、各式各樣物品的大市集，可以讓你感受最地道的中國購物體驗。若想在人 流較少的商場購買名牌商品的話，就要到旗艦店林立的萬象城（www.themixc.com）、Coco Park 及金光華廣場走走；華強北則是搜羅電子玩意的好去處。

4 運動

深 圳 企 業 家 雲 集 ， 完 善 的 高 爾 夫 球 設 施當然不可少。深圳高爾夫俱樂部（www.chinasgc.com）環境清幽，距離皇崗不過十分鐘，香港許多高球發燒友也愛來此揮杆。不妨向酒店禮賓部打探，或有機會一試只限會員使 用的九洞36標準杆球場。想一嘗冰雪滋味，大 可試試萬象城按奧運競賽標準興建的冰紛萬象 滑冰場（www.worldicearena.com），或世界之窗 的4,000平方米室內滑雪道。

5 水療

深 圳 的 水 療 中 心 固 然 能 讓 你 享 受 水 療 及 足 部 按 摩 ， 亦 提 供 了 飲 食 、 睡 眠 、 社 交 等 設 施。皇室假期（www.queenspa.cn）除了能夠滿足客人的各項基本需求，亦有豪華轎車出租服 務，提供勞斯萊斯接送往返酒店。而五星級酒店的水療亦各有特色，如金茂JW萬豪酒店的 Quan Spa（www.quanspa.com）就 是以海底世界為主題的水療設施；而馬哥孛羅好日子酒店的 Mandara Spa（www.mandaraspa.com），則提供中式美點予賓客品嚐。

6 吃

華僑城洲際大酒店的餐廳Pipette裝修華 麗，美食也令人再三回味；喜歡日本料理，就一定要到金茂JW萬豪酒店的絲，嚐嚐廚師 的拿手料理；褔田香格里拉大酒店的褔臨門， 供應不可錯過的經典高級粵菜。想換換口味， 吃得草根一點，就要到Coco Park美食聯邦 （www.cocopark.cn），在露天食肆喝杯啤酒、 品嚐各種料理。若想加添一點玩味，可以到便 所主題餐廳（www.m-toilet.com），坐在幾可亂 真的馬桶上，吃狀似米田共的朱古力雪糕， 喝迷你便池榨出來的檸檬汽水。

7 一日遊

沿新高速公路乘40分鐘的士，便來到 大梅沙京基喜來登度假酒店（www.sheraton.com/dameisha），這裡有深圳最清靜、交通 最便利的沙灘。不嫌路程稍為遠一點的話， 可以順道前往海岸線較長的南澳及西沖海 灘。高爾夫世界盃的舉辦場地觀瀾湖（www.missionhillsgroup.com），除了有12個世界級球場外，亦有網球場、多個特色水療設施和頂級餐廳，讓你在廣闊的綠色草地上，也能享有貴賓式享受。

8 文化體驗

如果沒有鄧小平，深圳就不會由一個漁村發展成繁華的商業城市。不過，深圳 依然留存著不少遠離煩囂的休憩之地。不妨趁一大清早，到蓮花山公園呼吸新鮮空 氣，看當地人耍太極和扇舞；或是到仙湖植物公園散步，欣賞那裡的茶屋、涼亭、 池塘，亦可到弘法寺參觀膜拜。想了解深圳的客家文化，就應該到鶴湖新居，亦即 圳龍崗客家民族博物館。若想一次將深圳的城市景色盡收眼底的話，樓高384米 的地王大廈69樓的觀望台必能滿足你。

9 向中國藝術進發

中 國 藝 術 品 一 直 得 到 本 地 和 外 國 人 睞，所以價格迅速飆升，現在大概只有新進藝術家的作品還能以合理價錢買到。由石板街間隔著的華僑城創意文化園，是一個畫廊、藝術工作室、設計公司、精品店、餐廳的聚集地（www.octre.com/loft/xmjj.htm）。愛好油畫的話，可以到大芬油畫村（www.cndafen.com）購買出色的仿製品，甚至可以請畫家把你的樣子繪進革命宣傳海報裡。雖然，大芬油畫村離市中心較遠，但看過這些當地出色的藝術作品後，肯定讓你覺得不枉此行。何香凝美術館展出的前衛藝術作品，亦不容錯過。

10 玩

華僑城洲際大酒店裡的帆船餐廳和酒吧，是一間有甲板的船吧，適合黃昏時分在此小酌、欣賞落日。入夜後，下層的餐廳有澳洲樂隊現場表演，強勁的音樂節拍令舞池擠得水泄不通。不少藝術家和音樂家喜歡聚在一渡堂（www.douban. com/people/cunionshenzhen）獻藝；威尼斯皇冠假日酒店的 V 吧（www.crownplaza. com ）則 有 雷 射 燈 光 及 樂 隊 現 場 表 演 。 想暢飲一番就非到蛇口不可，到海上世界酒吧街（www.szseaworld.com）來一場酒吧接力，保證讓你不醉無歸。

服用任何假期，管理你引以為傲的？

為什麼不派你捕捉到地平線攝影比賽 - 讓您有機會到您的手藝功能上ouur封底？

這個月，我們已特洛伊米爾斯和DJ莫里斯感謝這個鏡頭，採取了越南中南部

“100公里到乘坐從峴港，霧降落在這個看似無底峽谷，給我們的絕好機會喘息”

Text Catharine Nicol

Shenzhen is China’s Disneyland of the world – on steroids. It is where Mainland China’s youth come to live, work and play, and they set a frantic pace as they embrace their Eastern past, Western present and world-conquering future. This pulsating, chaotic and infinitely fun part of the Motherland has officially embraced everything materialistic and hedonistic, and as a result has some of the best no-holds-barred shopping, eating, entertainment and partying anywhere in the region.

1 主題公園

Shenzhen is Theme Parks ‘R’ Us. The Eiffel Tower, Taj Mahal and Leaning Tower of Pisa rub shoulders at Window of the World WOW (www.szwwco.com), while Splendid China (www.cn5000.com.cn/english) is China in a nutshell. Up the kitsch levels at Minsk World (www..szminsk.com), a real, live aircraft carrier combining raw engineering, Russian culture and laugh-out-loud dancing skits. But the big daddy of them all is OCT East (en.octeast.com/about). Hop aboard the elevated steam train and get a bird’s eye view of Swiss village Interlaken in China, or take in the three parks of Knight, Tea Stream and Wind Valleys.

2 Posh Hoteis

The obscene amounts of disposable wealth in Shenzhen has seen big hotel brands flock to the city, with the JW Marriott (www..jwmarriottshenzhen.com), Futian Shangri-La (www.shangri-la.com/futian) and the Grand Hyatt Shenzhen (www.shenzhen.grand.hyatt. com) being the most recent newbies. One of the established classics is the Spanish InterContinental Shenzhen (www.ichotelsgroup. com), where being welcomed by doormen in pink tights is a highlight, but check out the sandy beach and Galleon Bar too. For high-end elegance it’s got to be the executive floor at The Ritz-Carlton Shenzhen (www.ritzcarlton.com/ shenzhen) – don’t miss Paletto, their Italian restaurant. And for a crazy warren of affordable and designer-tastic abodes check out the 100 wildly different rooms at Vision Fashion Hotel (www.visionfashionhotel.com).

3 Top

Shopping in Shenzhen has so surpassed the questionable delights of Lohu Commercial City – although if you want a favourite piece of clothing copied, that’s still the place to go. Dong Men Pedestrian Street (www.expatsz.com) offers the mayhem of insane designs at insanely cheap prices sold by insane sales people, making for one hell of a China experience. Take the volume down – but only a tad – at MixC (www.themixc.com), one of the city’s most buzzing malls where luxury brands’ flagships are racking up millions in RMB sales. Coco Park and KingGlory Plaza aren’t far behind, and Hua Qiang Bei is full of sophisticated electronic gizmos for professional geeks.

4 Sports

For a city of entrepreneurs so hell-bent on business it’s no surprise that golf is the sport to play. Central is the Shenzhen Golf Club (www.chinasgc.com) – ask your hotel’s concierge if you can get a round in on one of the three 9-hole par 36 members’ only courses. Take to your skates at MixC’s Olympic-size World Ice Arena (www.. worldicearena.com), where Thursday nights is Ladies’ Night, full of both sexes triple toe looping and salchowing like mad. The Indoor Alpine Ski Run at WOW is a surreal but cool 4,000 square metres of indoor piste.

5 Bargain Spas

Spa-ing Shenzhen style is all about spending hours socialising, eating, sleeping – oh and getting a massage or foot rub too. Queen Spa (www.queenspa.cn) is the undisputed no-frills king of them all; hire their metallic gold Rolls to take you back to your hotel. All the five-stars have indulgent sanctuaries, for example Quan Spa (www.quanspa.com) at the JW Marriott is an underwater-themed cocoon of a spa, while the Marco Polo’s contemporary Mandara Spa (www.. mandaraspa.com) offers Oriental treats.

6 Neat Eats

Pipette at the InterContinental is all style and substance, Shizuku is Japanese cuisine to die for courtesy of the JW Marriott, and Fook Lam Moon is the Futian Shangri-La’s altar to Cantonese cuisine. Out on the streets there’s every kind of Chinese cuisine but try Coco Park (www.cocopark.cn), an alfresco chaos of different cuisines washed down with urns of beer, and Modern Toilet Restaurant (www.mtoilet.com) where you sit on the ‘throne’ while tucking into poo-shaped twirls of chocolate ice cream, sipping on lemon squash out of a mini urinal. Class!

7 Day Trips

Take a taxi along the new highway and it’s only 40 minutes to the Sheraton Dameisha (www.sheraton.com/dameisha), for the city’s most accessible, attractive and quiet beach. Further are Nan’Ao Bay and Xichong with longer expanses of sand. For fresh air and beautiful fairways Mission Hills (www.missionhillsgroup.com) is home to the golf’s annual World Cup, with 12 world-class courses but also a tennis academy, several phenomenal spas and great restaurants.

8 Culture

Deng Xiaoping, the acknowledged hero of Shenzhen, took it by its fishing village roots and lifted it into the commercial city it is today. Visit his statue in the Lotus (Lianhua) Mountain Park first thing in the morning to witness tai chi and fan dancing. Alternatively stroll around the Lake of the Immortals Botanical Gardens’ teahouses, lakes, pavilions and Hong Fa Temple. To understand more about Shenzhen’s Hakka culture visit the Crane Lake Fortified Hakka Village and Culture Museum. For the best aerial view of the city go to the 69th viewing floor of the 384-metre high Diwang Mansion, a symbol of modern Shenzhen (all on wikitravel. org/en/Shenzhen).

9 Going Arty

Chinese art is one of the Motherland’s most eye-catching exports and new up and coming artists may be the only ones you can afford these days. Stroll the cobbled streets at OCT Loft and you’ll have found the city’s most charming, calming art galleries – as well as design houses, shops and restaurants. For copies and commissions, for example you could put yours and your friends’ faces in a Chinese propaganda poster, there’s Dafen Art Village (www.dafenartonline.com). It’s a little out of town but worth a morning getting under the skin of the city’s talented reproduction artists. And for a look at everything avant-garde check out the He Xiangning Art Museum.

10 After Hours Powers

The Galleon Restaurant and Bar at the InterContinental (www.ichotelsgroup.com) is the place to start your evening. Drink on the upper deck as the sun goes down, then head inside for the infectiously upbeat Aussie band and crammed dance floor. C:Union (www.shenzhenparty.com) is a cool local hangout nearby, V Bar at the Crowne Plaza Hotel (www..ichotelsgroup.com) is a clubby bar of live bands, laser lights and disco balls, and Bar Street (www.szseaworld.com) at the Shekou end of town is a western-style pub crawl of stupendous proportions.

文本安德魯石
攝影加里麥

團長蘭桂坊及灣仔，香港的夜生活社區最了解，在幾乎任何夜晚，你會發現自己josting空間成群結隊的同胞之間的派對。

它都可以大樂趣，你的心情，但在做什麼，如果你想有一個涼爽，更加獨特的經驗，遠離喝醉酒的，愉快小時醉鬼？知道如何尋找或向誰問，你會發現一個平行的城市聚會到凌晨時分。

‘查找’，應該是口號時，尋找這個城市的上等 speakeasies。在舊樓，高樓大廈鱗次櫛比的中環，灣仔，銅鑼灣及尖沙咀謹慎休息室帶有露台的意見，斯旺克威士忌的酒吧和獨家委員只飲用窩點召喚。

已知的最好的密密麻麻的購物商場，在街頭銅鑼灣（只灣仔以東）似乎是一個 nighlife沙漠，20或30層樓，但你會發現時尚，車水馬龍綠洲提供卡拉OK，酒吧和精明的商業小日本小吃關節。

步入大堂的Bartlock中心耀華街，或布盧姆樓東龍街，你會發現幾十個小酒吧和卡拉OK關節經典粵語流行曲扯開嗓子，經常由廣東話為主人群的當地人。

高增長熱點的時刻，是和鑽石廣場。探索方案B電梯，或只是衝按鈕地板27個進入銀行家，一個吊燈和大理石掛滿豪華酒吧俯瞰區，跑馬地吸引了冷靜，富裕人群。四層樓下來你會發現主頁，別緻的香檳吧貼滿了紀念品，以著名的法國費茲。

要確保你喝隱姓埋名？然後頭向執行酒吧內 Bartlock中心。獨家日本人辦的飲水登，它服務於一個無與倫比的選擇威士忌（和波旁王朝）來自世界各地的送達其商標領域的巨大冰白蘭地式氣球。

你必須提前預訂，這使得它適用於離散座談溝通，têtes。但是要注意，這都是較黑的男性和嚴重，如果你沒有露面保留你將無法提供。

過海在九龍地區，凡數層以上河內道，提供一些觀點冰鮮出其活潑，竹裝飾著陽台。白色沙發，水煙管和DJ甲板內完成顯得格外地聲名狼藉的圖片。

如果你發現自己想要避暑和喧囂附近的諾士佛台（九龍的小蘭桂坊）負責人達達酒吧+休息室，大理啟發酒吧的豐饒多樂文娜公館酒店。不完全是一個秘密，但卻是一個最喜歡的項目，在黑色小書的專業人群的建立四十八和當地人誰培養 30多歲的休息室來的聲音，現場爵士樂和水果雞尾酒。

回到一水之隔的熱鬧街道和蘇豪區的中央，隱藏水井往往是寥寥可數。如果你發現自己蘇豪方式，嘗試堅定俱樂部 71，1預應力區下一個黑暗的胡同過荷李活道。很難找到，所以非常適合那些想一個安靜的飲料或有點善意的玩笑與小附庸風雅，人群和悠閒的酒吧工作人員。

如果您在自己魚翅厚的行動在方，需要擺脫瘋狂，採取短步行上山到十點半，獎勵你自己的雞尾酒舒適的沙發上是時尚閃閃發亮點附近的纏繞的立交橋和人行道附近的堅道。

如果步行上山是所有有點太多或尋找隱藏的夜生活場所中環，似乎不必要的外衣，匕首，你可以做不如頭的文華東方經典的25層 M酒吧。

達達一樣，秘密，大部分肯定是沒有，但在地下船長酒吧幾乎總是擠滿了雪茄chomping顯貴，由於某些原因M有一直有一個表自由時，我們訪問過的。不用說，服務是模範和宏偉的雞尾酒。為了櫻花尼克羅尼，陶醉在肘部空間和參與這些驚人的海景。乾杯！

詳細信息

銀行家
27 /女和鑽石廣場。軒尼詩道523-527

俱樂部 71
乙/女，67荷李活道，蘇豪 +852 2858 7071

達達
39金巴利道九龍，香港+852 3763 8778 www.dadaloung.com.hk

行政酒吧
27 /樓中心Bartlock，3耀華街852 2893 2080

十點半
地下室10連拿下，中央+852 2869 9089

家
23 /女和鑽石廣場 523-527軒尼詩道852 2836 6434

M酒吧
文華東方酒店，五幹諾道中852 2825 4002

哪裡
4 /號世紀大廈 3-4河內道，尖沙咀+852 2135 9999

Text Gary Jones

In Pudong, acRoss the Huangpu River from Shanghai’s historic Bund, the cloud-busting World Financial Center is, at 492 metres, one of the world’s tallest buildings. It looms alongside the rocket-like Oriental Pearl TV Tower and the space-age Shanghai Stock Exchange. The three are potent symbols of a city reclaiming its reputation as a commerce-driven powerhouse.

In the 1930s, in its heyday as a Chinese city run by colonial powers, Shanghai was a melting pot of peoples and ideas from every corner of the planet. It was an exciting time of pink gins and jazz, and local architects embraced the cutting edge of contemporary design to reflect the toe-tapping zeitgeist. Shanghai fell head over its high heels for art deco.

Inspired by the Italian Futurist and German Bauhaus schools, deco emphasised uncluttered geometric forms and simplified lines, and was generously applied in Shanghai to everything from hotels and fire hydrants to cinemas and saltshakers. Shanghai, in 2010, still boasts more deco structures than Miami, the Florida city lauded as a living museum to that 20th-century design movement.

One of the best architectural examples in Shanghai, and the ideal starting point for a deco walking tour of the city, is Broadway Mansions, a Gotham-esque structure with a commanding location to the north of the Bund. Constructed as an apartment building in 1934, the 22-storey ochre-brick structure is now dwarfed by twinkling skyscrapers, and yet still exudes a here-to-stay confidence.

Three years after completion Broadway’s high-living tenants were kicked out by the invading Japanese army, and its glamorous Big Apple-inspired moniker would be changed to Shanghai Mansions come the 1949 victory of Mao Zedong’s communists. The building has since reclaimed its old name and houses a four-star hotel, and paying guests are once more permitted entry.

Shanghai’s most discussed art deco masterpiece is a short stroll south. The Peace Hotel (originally christened the Cathay Hotel in 1929) was the vanity project of old Shanghai’s most prominent businessman, Victor Sassoon, a British citizen of Iraqi origin whose family had made its fortune in opium. The fashionable Cathay regularly accommodated celebrities, including Charlie Chaplin and Noel Coward.

Standing a modest 77 metres, the Peace screams old-world grandeur. Interestingly, the Bank of China that sits at the Peace’s elbow was intended to be the tallest building on the Bund. But back then the Bund was a British-administered area of the city, and Sassoon objected strenuously. The bank’s plans were then altered to incorporate a pagoda-style roof atop a design that eventually rose just 30 centimetres short of Sassoon’s showpiece.

Heading west, away from the river along Nanjing Road, Shanghai’s most bustling shopping drag, you will soon reach People’s Square, where the dark-red-brick Park Hotel, which threw open its etched-glass doors in 1934, stands out like a sore thumb. Boasting a retracting ballroom roof, the Park attracted Shanghai’s glitterati to dance under the stars. With 22 floors, the hotel boasted grand views of Shanghai Racecourse, and was the tallest building between London and Tokyo until well after the end of the Second World War.

Deco apartment buildings will also win your attention as you head further west. The minimalist Medhurst, built in 1934, stands at the corner of Shimen Road, and would have been considered the height of chic living in its day. More deco buildings line the side streets off Nanjing Road, including the DV Woo House (Tongren Road). The four-floor house was designed by innovative Hungarian architect Ladislaus Hudec in 1938 and featured all mod cons, including an elevator, air conditioning and a bar opening onto the garden.

Nearby Eddington House (Changde Road), has survived decades of neglect. This was the home of Zhang Ailing (Eileen Chang), China’s most celebrated female writer of the 20th century. Zhang and her neighbours would have visited the nearby Paramount Ballroom (Wanhangdu Road) to let their hair down. As well as state-of-the-art dancehalls, Shanghailanders were spoilt for choice when it came to after-dark entertainment. At deco cinemas they would have lapped up blockbusters from the golden age of Hollywood. By 1939, Columbia, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, Paramount, 20th Century Fox, United Artists, Universal Studios and Warner Bros. all had offices in Shanghai.

The Cathay Cinema sits at the hectic junction of Huaihai and Maoming roads in Shanghai’s Former French Concession south from Nanjing. This area of the city is awash with deco influences, and further south along Maoming huddles Cathay Mansions, one of the first deco high-rises to be built on Shanghai’s swampy soil. The Cathay was such a success that its owners built Grosvenor House – an even larger deco building nearby. These days, the Jinjiang Hotel complex has swallowed both up, with the Grosvenor’s 72 suites attracting a new breed of VIP.

Stroll the old French Concession and you are guaranteed to stumble upon countless examples of Shanghai’s rich deco heritage. Hidden away on its winding avenues are the Dufour, Foncim, and futuristic Elizabeth apartments. As Shanghai races towards a bright future, and its steel-and-glass skyscrapers stretch towards the heavens, its art deco masterpieces of the 1930s are concrete testaments to Shanghai’s clout of yesteryear.

Where to Stay

Housed in some of Shanghai’s most desirable heritage-designated architecture, art deco hotels are not the cheapest in China’s most sophisticated metropolis. The World Expo, which will be held in Shanghai from May 1 to October 31, and which is expected to attract 70 million visitors, will also likely encourage rates upward this year. Great deals can sometimes be found, however, when booking online.

The legendary Peace Hotel has been under top-to-toe renovation for over a year, and is set to reopen as the Fairmont Peace Hotel sometime in mid-2010. For more information, see www.fairmont.com/promo/peacehotel (rates available upon application). The five-star Langham Yangtze Boutique Shanghai boasts many rooms with balconies and a prime downtown location close to People’s Square and within walking distance of the Bund (yangtzeboutique.langhamhotels.com; tel: +8621 6080 0800). The Jinjiang Hotel, also five-star, in the former French Concession (jinjianghotels.com; tel: +8621 3218 9888) is one of the more affordable art deco options in town, and located close to much of the city’s best shopping, dining and nightlife.

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